Builders Tips
Problems/Solutions
How do you get the Rudder & Aileron
Cables under the pulleys without removing them ?
First remove the nut/washer & seat belt from the end of the 8mm bolt. Next
withdraw the bolt very carefully, until it is through the bracket (on the nut
side). Remove the two washers from between the bracket and the first pulley.
Remove the first pulley from the end of the bolt, do not withdraw the bolt any
further than needed. You can now slip the cables around and underneath the
pulleys. Rudder cable, two Aileron cables then the other Rudder cable. Refit the
pulley having first added a little grease to hold the two washers in place. You
will proberly have to wedge out the bracket a little to fit all back into
position. Refit seat belt, washer & nut.
How do you fit the beading around the
lip of the pod, it is not very pliable ?
Put the beading into a basin of hot water, this will soften it for easy fitting,
or using a heat gun, work your way around the lip of the pod, heating the
beading as you go.
Mod's Tips & Idea's
Replace Pin's at front mounting of compression strut (114) with 6 x 30mm
bolt's, also adding washer in between gap in end, to prevent movement fore & aft
in the suspension (and subsequent wear), and to prevent rattles.
Add 25mm x 25mm Black (or white if you can get them) plastic end plugs to
front forks, to prevent the build up of dirt.
Fit 4mm anchor nuts to dash top, this will allow easy removal of Instrument
panel for future work.
Underneath the right hand seat is a great place for storing maps etc, first
block up the rear gap, with a bit of foam (Armaflex) or similar.
When fitting switch's into dash panel, install with the groove in the switch
facing 'up' for correct sense, i.e. Down Off.
When fitting windscreen/pod/dash top, drill the holes 4.5mm, not 4mm, for
the 4mm bolts, as Lexan expands & contracts, and this will leave clearance, to
prevent small cracks developing, around holes at a later stage.
The black plastic sleeve's on the Rudder and Aileron cables, should be
positioned as follows :- The sleeves on the Aileron cables, should be pushed
fully forward, so that they protect the Aileron cables, under the floor, and add
protection where they come in contact with the Front Floor Tube 143.
The Rudder sleeves, should be positioned BEHIND the pulley assembly, so that
they provide protection, where the cables cross each other. In order to stop
sleeves sliding up & down the cables, I would suggest tapeing them in place.
Do not fit the deeper/longer instruments, i.e. ALT & VSI, too low down on
dash panel, as they will obstruct your feet, especially when using the toe
brakes.
The number labels that are some times stuck to the fabric, can be removed
easily enough, with good old soap and water. Also the parcel tape used in the
packaging can sometimes leave pieces stuck to the tubing, this can be removed by
using Car "T Cut".
Xair Wiring Loom + Diagram
A lot of builders seem to be confused over the wiring loom that is supplied
in the kit. Some builders have even went to the trouble of, Re-wiring it "their
way".
The wiring loom as supplied is actually very good when you understand how it is
laid out especially if you are fitting a Rotax engine.
Wiring
Starting at the dash end of the loom, all the negative (black) wires are
commoned/joined at the Ignition switch's. Thier will be one, dual colored wire,
coming from each of the Ignition switch's, to the plastic socket, these are the
engine Dual Ignition wires, and will exit at the engine side of the loom, these
will normally be connected to the two, Black/Yellow wires coming from the
engine.
A loose Black wire, will be coming from an Ignition switch, this is used to
connect to one side of the engine rev counter, the loose Grey wire, coming from
the plastic socket, is then connected to the other side of the rev counter, this
Grey wire, will also exit at the engine side of the loom, and is connected to
the Grey wire coming from the engine.
The Black wire that also exit's at the engine side, should be connected to some
part of the engine casing. It is also a good idea to connect another wire from
this point, to some part of the airframe. You now have all the wiring completed,
if you are not fitting a battery.
If installing a battery, proberly for an electric start, you will need to
complete the rest of the wiring.
A Red wire with an eyelet fitted to it, will be exiting the plastic socket, at
the engine side of the loom. This is connected to the Positive side of the
battery, this Red wire, then goes down the loom, and exits from the plastic
socket at the dash side, it will also have an eyelet fitted to it, and should be
connected to one side of the Ampmeter.
Coming from the fuse holder will be two Orange wires, one will have an eyelet
fitted, this then, connects to the other side of the Ampmeter.
An Orange wire will be coming from the plastic socket, and will be joined to the
black wire from the Key switch, with a spade connector. The other Orange wire
from the fuse holder, connects here.
This might seem confusing as the Orange wire is now going back up the loom to
the engine side again. The way it works is, the battery positive, red wire, is
fed down the loom, through the Ampmeter, (which will now show current drawn) and
through the 15A fuse, (which protects everything from here on), to the Key or
Master switch.
The Orange wire is the positive feed or charge coming from the Regulator, which
will be fitted at the engine end, by connecting the Orange wire to it's positive
output, the two Yellow wires coming from the plastic plug, to it's inputs and
the negative output, again connected to the engine casing. Thier will be two
further Yellow wires coming from the plastic socket at the engine side, which
are connected to the engines charging coil wires which are Yellow &
Yellow/Black. (which way around dosn't matter).
The charge from the Regulator now comes in the Orange wire, through the fuse and
the Ampmeter, (which will now show charge taking place), and onto the battery
through the Red wire.
After the Key switch, the Red positive wires are commended/joined at the
Aux/Accessory switch.
When the key switch is turned 'On' the Green LED will come on, positive supply
will be now fed to the starter button for the electric start, the Aux switch and
the Red wire with a spade terminal fitted to it, which, along with the Black
wire, which, also, has a spade terminal, are joined to the Metal plug & socket,
which can be used for supply to a GPS, Radio, Intercom etc.
When the Aux/Accessory switch is turned 'On' the Red LED will come on, and power
will be supplied out the wires on the small plastic plug & socket, which is
ideal for the Xair Landing Light, or conection to a Strobe light etc.
The Yellow wire coming from the starter button, will now exit up at the engine,
and has a spade connector fitted to it, for connection to the Starter motor
solenoid switch.
The only remaining wire in the Xair loom will be a dual colored wire, with a
spade connector fitted to it at the engine end, and just a loose wire at the
other. This is a spare or can be used for the engine Water Temp Sender, if
fitting a water cooled engine, which would require a Water Temp gauge on the
dash.
This gauge will also need a positive & negative supply, which could come from
the Red & Black wires, feeding the metal plug & socket, if you are not fitting
it, or solder on two additional wires, so long as it is only 'live' when the Key
switch is turned 'On'.
Wiring Diagram
The Wiring Diagram can be viewed below, or click on the link to download & save
on your hard drive.
Xair Wiring Diagram Download.
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